Build: DIY outdoor trestle dining table
A diy outdoor table that seats 10 comfortably and we’ve got the plans for you! I desperately wanted to build an outdoor table that was double wide (meaning 2 people can fit on the short ends) so I asked my buildy gal pal Ana White to design some plans, she did and I built this beauty!
The top measures 90″l x 64″w and that’s a 12 foot umbrella stuck in the middle.
We modified the shape for a more squarish table and Ana, being the genius that she is, designed the base to have a double trestle.
Total cost for this DIY version: $200
I actually spent less than that by using some 2×6 teak from an old fence. For this outdoor build I choose all pressure treated boards, teak and cedar for the base. The top surface is a combination of teak and 2×6 fir boards. Only the top surface, cut ends on the base and underside of the base is sealed with Helmsman clear satin poly, I’m letting the base weather naturally to grey and maybe after the winter I will seal it once the green tinge is gone.
I drilled a 2″ hole smack in the middle of the table top for the monster 12′ umbrella.
And down below I drilled the same 2″ hole through the first 2×4 and then only a 3/4″ hole through the second 2×4. This supports the umbrella but allows for water to drain. Both holes are sealed with poly to prevent rot.
The boards are spaced a generous 1/4″ apart (I used multiple yard sticks on edge in between each board to act as spacers while I secured them from below.). The spacing allows for water drainage because this table will be outside all year long.
How to build an outdoor trestle dining table:
Build the base upsidedown, attach the 4×4 posts to the 1×6 cedar using 3″ exterior screws then add the 2×6 boards. Begin with the first 2×6 layer which has a 45 degree bevel on both ends, attach to the previous board with 2 1/2″ exterior screws.
Now you don’t even need to measure the next 2×6. Simply make the 30 degree bevel cut at one end, lay the board in place lining up the cut ends (not in the photo above) then mark the board and this is where you’ll make the other 30 degree bevel.
Repeat this process for the last 2×6.
Use your Kreg jig to make pocket holes in the 2×4 trestle detail.
Then attach the 2×4 to the 4×4 posts using the pocket holes.
Notice the predrilled pocket holes in the 1×6 apron piece, you’ll want to make more holes than I did because the 2×6 top pieces need to be attached in 2 places if possible.
For the center support I used 2×6 teak, again these need pocket holes going upwards to attach the top pieces. Consider predrill the holes (it’s easier than going against gravity!) or this is a good time for the Kreg jig portable base and face clamp.
To attach the top 2×6 boards I added 2×4 cross supports.
With lots of pocket holes!
And just for security I added a 1×3 to the underside flush to the apron screwed up into the top 2×6 boards just to be sure all those boards line up flush as possible on top.
Thank you Ana as always.
And if you’re wondering about the chairs:
They’re from Lowes, $20 each, stackable! washable! durable! no cushions! lightweight!
Need I say more?