Going round has it’s advantages so I decided to build an X base circular dining table. You can definitely squish more chairs around a round table and it’s much easier to navigate the room without sharp edges.
A DIY tutorial to build an X base dining table with a circular top. A modification on an Ana White plan by changing the top to a circle.
I built this circular dining table with an x base using plans from Ana White here and modified the top support pieces and created circular top design. I thought I’d share the modifications for those interested.
Placed in the center of our antique farmhouse living room I love how the lines of the X base make a bold statement marking the table position. And the contrast between the sharp X angles on the base and the soft round circular shape of the top is so good.
The X pattern is repeated in the tabletop design when you’re looking from above. We in our living room, a room that was hardly ever being used, so I decided to make it into an work space with my workbench style desk and this additional dining table for overflow during the holidays. It’s wonderful to have another surface for homework, projects, or to spread out the newspaper and have coffee.
This table easily accommodates four adults but you could probably fit six people no problem.
I just love the chunky 2×6 construction combined with the 2×4 cross pieces that divide the table so neatly. This is basic off the shelf lumber from Home Depot, nothing fancy here.
To get this smooth curved edge I used Rogue Engineer’s tutorial here. Jamison shows you how to build the jig for the router and make multiple passes using a spiral upcut bit.
I definitely don’t mind sharing my new workspace with my kids as long as they’re being productive. Below are the modifications I made to Ana’s plans. Be sure to read through entirely before beginning. Use Ana’s plans here for the base construction with the following modifications in BOLD:
- 2 – 1×4 @ 11 5/8” 15 3/4″
- 1 – 1×4 @ 26 7/8” 35″
- 2 – 1×4 @ 13 1/4”
- 1 – 1×4 @ 30”
- 1 – 4×4 @ 21 1/4”
- 8 – 4×4 @ 13” (longest point measurement, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square not parallel)
- 1 – 4×4 @ 36” (longest point measurement, both ends cut at 30 degrees off square not parallel)
- 2 – 4×4 @ 16 1/4” (longest point measurement, one end cut at 30 degrees off)
- 4 – 1×4 @ 5 1/4” (one end cut at 30 degrees off square, longest point measurement)
- 2 – 2×4 @ 14 1/4” 18 1/4″(one end cut at 30 degrees off square, longest point measurement)
- 1 – 2×4 @ 32” 40″ (both ends cut at 30 degrees off square, longest point measurement, ends NOT parallel)
TOP is cut to fit
Step 1: Construct the base using the increased top support measurements as listed in the cut list above.
Step 2: Construct the top using the 2×4 cross as your starting point cut the 2x6s to fit. Use pocket holes in both directions and on the angled cut ends. Be especially careful of where you place the end pocket hole on the last board (marked by yellow arrows), try to inset at least 7″ so pocket hole won’t be visible once you cut the circle.
Step 3: Make the router jig using Rogue Engineer’s tutorial here. It will take multiple passes with the router increasing the bit depth each time. Definitely consider your jig board thickness before beginning: I used a 3/4″ board for my jig and I couldn’t get the bit deep enough to make the final pass on the 1 1/2″ thick boards. I ended up flipping over the table and making the cut from the underside.
A detail shot of the spiral upcut router bit results. So smooth!
Step 4: For additional support on the end curved piece attach 1×2 boards to underside.
For the finish I stained the table using a mixture of Minwax classic grey and dark walnut followed by clear wax. Place the base in position and attach the tabletop from the underside.