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Jaime Costiglio

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DIY Simple Toy Box with Lid

September 17, 2013

A simple childhood staple – the toy box – is something you can build.  Let’s make a diy simple toy box with a lid to corral all those toys.
diy simple toy box with lid

How to build a simple toy box with a lid including the hardware I used to avoid pinching those little fingers.

I teamed up with Ana White to build this perfectly simple yet functional toy box with a lid.
diy simple toy box with monogrammed lid

Ana drew up the plans and I built this toy box complete with a torsion hinged lid so no little fingers get pinched!

The hinges operate exactly like your lap top, the lid stays in the position you leave it until you push it down to close:

diy simple toy box with lid in open position

The inspiration for this simple toy box with lid came from Land of Nod’s I’m Just a Toy Box:

land of nod i'm not just a toy box
photo source 
Using Ana’s plans you’ll be able to make this toy box for a fraction of the retail price AND you can personalize it to coordinate with your space.
The lumber for this project runs about $60 and the hinges are $50 (but worth every penny!).
simple toy box with lid
Some more detailed shots of the hinges, they are functional, easy on the eyes and most importantly provide a gap between the lid and the box so no fingers get trapped:
rockler torsion hinges
Ana even included the cut out detail at front center, easy to do with your jig saw:
toy box cut out detail
For more DIY toy box styles and inspiration:
toy-box-round-up
How to build the simple toy box with lid:
1. Use Ana White’s plans to cut your lumber and assemble. The trick to getting the inset walls is to use 1/2″ plywood.
2. Predrill all your pocket holes and attach the top and bottom trim flush to the back:
how to build a simple toy box
3. In order to attach the sides to the legs with an even 1/4″ inset I simply placed a piece of 1/4″ scrap under the sides and then screwed into the legs:
inset panels with spacer
4. Main box assembled:
toy box carcass
5. Add base cross supports:
(and spill your pocket hole plugs all over the ground :))
toy box bottom view
6. This toy box uses pocket hole assembly which is wonderful for ease and square but does leave a ton of pocket holes on the interior.  Personally I prefer to plug the holes for a smooth finish but it’s not necessary.
If you do use plugs you’ll definitely want this Ryobi Multi Tool which makes quick work of slicing off any protruding pocket hole plug:
ryobi multi tool slicing pocket hole plugs
A little wood putty and sanding and your pocket hole is now invisible:
filled pocket hole
simple toy box built
7.  Prime and paint the toy box and lid.
8. To attach the lid I choose to use Rockler lid stay torsion hinges:
(The alternative would be a piano hinge and slow close lid support hinge.)
rockler lid stay torsion hinges
9. Use the instructions included to mark the hinges, predrill then attach.
10. For the monogram I used Monogram KK font at 600 and 700 point.
Print out the letters.  I made a paper piece about the size of the monogram area, place the prints out behind the paper piece as desired (I overlapped the side letters onto the middle H a bit) and trace to get your layout:
how to make a monogram
11. Take your final layout and center on toy box lid.  Using a ballpoint pen trace around the edge of the letters with heavy pressure:
trace letters onto top
12. The pressure of the pen creates an indent in the wood, this is where you will paint:
indent left from pen pressure
13. Using a fine brush and acrylic paints fill in the monogram:
handpainting monogram onto toy box top
14. Seal the monogram with clear satin poly spray.
how to build a simple toy box with lid
Thank you Ana White for such perfect plans, little Miss Charlotte thanks you too!
SHOP THIS PROJECT:

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Filed Under: BABIES, BENCHES, BUILD, DIY, FURNITURE, FURNITURE, GIFTS, KIDS, ORGANIZATION, PAINT, STORAGE59 Comments

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Our Pinteresting Family says

    September 18, 2013 at 1:03 AM

    It's so pretty and functional. 🙂 I love the monogram on it too.

    Reply
  2. Carissa Rasmussen says

    September 19, 2013 at 9:31 PM

    i totally want to make this! i definitely don't even need something as fancy. soo gorgeous

    Reply
  3. Carl Dombek says

    September 2, 2014 at 8:34 PM

    This is generally a very good design (just finished one for the grand kids) but I'd suggest one small change: Place the back panel so that it is flush with the back edges of the legs so that there is no inset on that side.

    That will provide greater flexibility in the types of hinges you can use. For example, you could use no-mortice hinges with a soft closer instead of being limited to the torsion hinges. That would also save a bit of money in the process.

    Reply
    • Joanne D Kennedy says

      April 13, 2020 at 12:11 PM

      Hi Carl – thanks for the feedback about the back panel being flush. I have had a difficult time getting the hinges on properly with the inlet. I did not use the torsion hinges, and suggestions beside3s making the back flush?

      Reply
  4. Debbie Cadene says

    September 22, 2014 at 3:21 PM

    Hi Jamie…I'm making your tool box, and am getting ready to drill my pocket holes into the side panels, which is the half inch…but even though the kreg "says" 1/2 inch, it wont come up to the 1/2" mark. How did you make your holes successfully???
    debbie.

    Reply
  5. Debbie Cadene says

    September 22, 2014 at 3:22 PM

    I meant toy box

    Reply
  6. Julie Sands says

    October 25, 2014 at 2:24 AM

    Can you please tell me what paint was used for this toy box?

    Thank you!

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      December 18, 2017 at 12:42 PM

      White semi-gloss paint.

      Reply
  7. Beata says

    November 27, 2017 at 10:15 AM

    When explained like that it doesn’t seems to be so complicated anymore. Will need to force my hubby to make similar thing!

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      November 28, 2017 at 8:07 AM

      Thanks Beata, I agree everything is easier if you go step by step.

      Reply
  8. Mark says

    December 23, 2017 at 7:32 PM

    How do you get the monogram to print large I downloaded but does not allow me to select what I would like. By the way love the look of the toy box. Hope to build one for my grand daughter.

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      December 30, 2017 at 8:56 AM

      Hi Mark, To make the monogram open a word document, select the your desired font and size and then print. Depending on your computer you may have to install the new font – once it’s downloaded click on the file and hit install then restart Word and it should be in your font options. Hope that helps.

      Reply
  9. Andrew says

    December 27, 2017 at 4:31 PM

    Hi! Quick question–what set of hinges did you end up ordering? Looks like there are different inch-pound ratings. Thanks!

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      December 31, 2017 at 5:07 PM

      Hi Andrew, I don’t remember exactly but I do know I used this calculator to figure out http://go.rockler.com/wizard_torsion.cfm? Hope that helps.

      Reply
    • Carol says

      March 5, 2019 at 6:55 PM

      Just wanted to mention that I ordered the wrong size hinges. I calculated 60 lb instead of 30 lb because I entered the wrong dimensions in to the calculator. The lid will not close all of the way and when I did a chat with Rockler he told me that was why. So I have done an exchange on the hinges. Does anyone know if this would really make that much of a difference? The lid pops back up at least a couple of inches when I try to close it.

      Reply
      • Patrick Maloney says

        May 18, 2022 at 11:32 AM

        I talked to the rep at Rockler today and he suggested ordering the 40 inch pound hinges so I ordered 2 for the toy box lid. Ordered them by phone and should receive within a week.

        Reply
  10. Kell says

    January 1, 2018 at 12:34 PM

    Wondering how well this might hold up as a bench-chest. Looking for storage and additional seating in our living room.

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      January 2, 2018 at 7:28 AM

      Great idea Kell

      Reply
  11. Sammi says

    February 8, 2018 at 4:46 PM

    Did you put a seal on the entire toy box to eliminate later chipping or anything?

    Just trying to decide how I should seal the white to keep it in good shape!

    These are amazing, thank you!

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      February 9, 2018 at 12:56 PM

      Hi Sammi, no seal. I used semi-gloss white which is the same paint I use on all the trim, moulding and door casings so it’s pretty durable. You could opt for an enamel that would help too.

      Reply
  12. Katie says

    April 17, 2018 at 8:41 AM

    Love it!! Can you please tell me the dimensions of the toy box? Length, width, and height. Thank you so much!!

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      April 17, 2018 at 9:00 AM

      Thanks Katie. All the dimensions are on the plans but overall the toybox I built here is 36″w x 16″d x 19 1/4″h. Hope that helps.

      Reply
  13. Chelsea says

    September 12, 2018 at 6:12 PM

    Hi Jamie!
    Just wondering if there are any instructions for where to put the pocket holes?
    Thanks

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      September 12, 2018 at 6:34 PM

      Hi Chelsea, You can see the actual pocket holes in my construction photos above. Is there a particular step you have in question? In general pocket holes are placed about 1″ from the edge and spaced 6-8″ apart. Hope that helps.

      Reply
  14. Mark says

    October 1, 2018 at 10:17 PM

    Based on the images of your toy box at the back where the hinge is attached, there is a gap between the bottom of the lid and the top of toy box. Did you do anything special at the front of the toy box where the lid sits on the frame? What is the gap thickness (probably hinge thickness) and does the lid look like it slopes down to the front? I like the type of hinge you used but I’m not sure if I would like how the lid slopes down. What are your thoughts?

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      October 2, 2018 at 7:29 AM

      Hi Mark, Yes there is an almost 1/4″ gap. I added felt bumpers (the thick hard circular style) to the underside of the lid where it meets the front corners. Hope that helps.

      Reply
  15. Gary says

    November 10, 2018 at 7:00 AM

    Did you use 3/4 inch MDF for the top?

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      November 10, 2018 at 8:34 AM

      Hi Gary, I used 3/4″ birch plywood for the top.

      Reply
      • Gary says

        November 10, 2018 at 12:24 PM

        Thanks Jaime. How did you finish the plywood edges?.

        Reply
        • Jaime says

          November 10, 2018 at 2:17 PM

          I believe I used iron on edge banding.

          Reply
  16. Mike Herrero says

    November 11, 2018 at 5:57 PM

    Jaime, in your plans for lumber sizes do you use nominal or actual dimensions?

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      November 11, 2018 at 9:26 PM

      Hi Mike, I use nominal dimensions for all lumber in my plans.

      Reply
  17. Mike says

    December 26, 2018 at 4:16 PM

    Question the plans call for a 3/4″ project panel but I don’t see where in the plans it’s used….I see plywood being used. Where is the project panel used? The lid perhaps?

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      December 26, 2018 at 6:31 PM

      Hi Mike, correct the 3/4″ project panel (3/4″ plywood at 2′ x 4′) is the lid.

      Reply
  18. Dave says

    November 2, 2019 at 2:44 PM

    Hi Jaime, I want to build this for my grandson for Christmas. I am thinking about a stained project as apposed to painted. Thoughts? what finished wood might you recommend?

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      November 3, 2019 at 8:10 AM

      Hi Dave, You could use cabinet grade plywood like birch or something fancier than would stain nice.

      Reply
      • Dave Schmit says

        November 8, 2019 at 9:20 AM

        Thank you Jamie. One other thing. I want to order the hinges but have not purchased the material yet. Might you remember that weight of the lid. I need it to get the right tension.

        Thanks so much. Really excited to do the project.

        Reply
        • Jaime says

          November 9, 2019 at 7:06 AM

          Hi Dave, I don’t remember the weight of the lid but I do know there is a website where you can plug in the dimensions and material that will calculate the weight.

          Reply
  19. Joanne K says

    November 10, 2019 at 4:07 PM

    Hi Jaime – I love the toy chest. I bought birch plywood and want to know if you sand the plywood? It has a smooth finish, however, it is my understanding that all wood regardless should be sanded before finished.
    I appreciate your feedback.

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      November 10, 2019 at 6:11 PM

      Hi Joanne, The birch plywood is pretty smooth but yes a quick sanding is necessary and then again after primer. Good luck!

      Reply
  20. Joanne Kennedy says

    March 18, 2020 at 8:26 PM

    Hi Jaime –

    Do you have any instruction/plans/videos on how to attach the hinges to the lid and the chest.

    I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.

    Thanks- Joanne K

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      March 19, 2020 at 12:13 PM

      Hi Joanne, I don’t have any details on how to attach the hinges. I just marked, predrilled and attached. Maybe on Rockler’s site in the reviews area? https://www.rockler.com/lid-stay-torsion-hinge-lid-support-satin-nickel
      Good luck!

      Reply
      • Joanne Kennedy says

        March 19, 2020 at 12:50 PM

        Hi Jaime – Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. I love the chest, it came out beautiful. I will attach a photo when it is complete.
        Joanne

        Reply
  21. James Mercier says

    April 25, 2020 at 10:43 AM

    Good morning just wondering Exactly what hinges you used on your toy box?
    I want to duplicate exactly as your plans describe.
    Thx Jim

    Reply
  22. Rex McKinney says

    May 8, 2020 at 9:10 AM

    Hi Jaime,
    What type of Drafting program do you use and is it available online?
    Thanks for you help and time

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      May 8, 2020 at 4:24 PM

      Hi Rex, I use SketchUp for all my digital plans. Yes it’s online at https://www.sketchup.com and there’s a free basic version to start.

      Reply
  23. Mike says

    September 25, 2020 at 11:59 AM

    Jaime,

    Is the Sketchup file for DIY Simple Toy Box with Lid available for download. I need to make some modifications to fit in my son and daughter-in-law’s home.

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      September 26, 2020 at 7:46 PM

      Hi Mike, the plans for this toy box belong to Ana White. It’s possible she may still have the sketch up file.

      Reply
  24. Patrick says

    November 2, 2020 at 10:23 PM

    Jamie,
    After building your table saw cart, now I have something to build using the table saw and the cart.
    what is the difference between project panel and hardwood plywood? I have some 1/2″ birch plywood left over from a project. Would that “qualify” as the 1/2″ hardwood plywood? as for the project panel. Suggestions?
    Thanks!

    Reply
  25. Patrick says

    December 5, 2020 at 10:29 PM

    I’ve got all my wood cut and I’m ready to start assembly.
    Regarding the 1/4 inset shown in your photos. Are ALL the plywood inset like that? Reason I’m wondering is because you say “Predrill all your pocket holes and attach the top and bottom trim flush to the back” I’m a bit confused when you say “flush to the back”
    Thanks so much!

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      December 10, 2020 at 7:55 AM

      Hi Patrick, To answer you question about Step 2 – the top and bottom trim gets attached to the side panels flush to the back (interior side with the pocket holes) this leaves a small 1/4″ reveal on the exterior side because the trim is 3/4″ thick and the side panels are 1/2″ thick. Hope that helps.

      Reply
      • Kelli Payne says

        December 13, 2020 at 6:52 PM

        Hi Jaime,
        We just built this toy box and there is a gap on each side of the bottom? Is it supposed to be that way or did we cut the bottom wrong?
        Thanks, Kelli

        Reply
        • Jaime says

          December 15, 2020 at 1:28 PM

          Hi Kelli, there should not be a gap at the bottom. Did you inset the sides on the legs? If I had to guess that might be why you have a gap. Easy fix though, just add a filler piece on the interior or leave the gap for ventilation! 🙂

          Reply
  26. Chris Rittelmeyer says

    January 5, 2021 at 11:48 AM

    Hi Jaime, hope you had a nice holiday!

    For the 1/2 inch pocket hole screws, the screws protrude from the wood once they’re fully screwed in. Is that right? I assumed that’s just the nature of pocket holes in 1/2-inch wood but I’m curious if you were able to get around that because I don’t see protruding screws in your pictures.

    Reply
    • Jaime says

      January 5, 2021 at 11:56 AM

      Hi Chris, For pocket holes in 1/2″ plywood use the pan head Kreg screws, they should bury just enough. I’ve also been known to use spax screws in my pocket holes (shhhh) and they definitely bury and allow for the wood plug. Good luck!

      Reply
      • Chris says

        January 5, 2021 at 8:30 PM

        Thanks for the quick response!

        Reply

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